Kalamkari,
literally translated to Pen Craft, is an age old way of fabric decoration.
Persian in its origin, this gorgeous craft was made by hand painting, using the
eponymous qalam – or using blocks. Today, it is largely made by block printing
or screen printing. Many traditional Kalamkari designs are also recreated by
digital printing – but this lacks the charm of the original art.
Kalamkari has
been practiced largely in Southern India, and its two main styles have
developed there only. They are Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam style. While the
latter is more influenced by influences from Iran, Hyderabad, Mughal dynasty
and Persian arts, the former is the indigenous one with inspirations from
flora, fauna and Indian epics like Ramayana, Mahabharata and VedPuranas.
Original
Kalamkari uses only vegetable dyes – hence the limitation of a certain color
palette and texture. With changing times, new techniques and raw materials have
been incorporated. Technically, Kalamkari is a time consuming, meticulous
process, involving 17 stages – from preparing the fabric base to applying wax,
dyeing, painting and color fixing.
Kalamkari Sarees
While Kalamkari
has been traditionally used for garments as well as home/ bed linen, it is the Kalamkari Saree that wins the race in
popularity. Sadly, this beautiful art had been fading at a rapid pace, until
recently, when designers as well as women across the country decided to revive
this losing craft. You can now routinely see many socialites and Bollywood
celebrities flaunting their Kalamkari sarees. Even women going to office and
the ones who wear saris on a regular basis can now be seen wearing these hand
painted or block printed drapes.
Most of these sarees
don’t have painted or block printed patterns all over the saree. Many plain sarees have gorgeous Kalamkari borders
and pallus, and they look absolutely stunning as well as very elegant. Silk sarees with Kalamkari prints are
also quite popular these days.
Kalamkari Blouses
For the ones,
who do not wish to invest in a Kalamkari saree, there is always the option of
getting a lovely Kalamkari blouse. Thankfully, these days, there is no dearth
of cotton fabrics with popular Kalamkari patterns of faces, hand gestures or
mudras, God faces and flowers. You can get these in beautiful colors and bases,
which go with many sarees.
Readymade designer blouses
in Kalamkari patterns are also available in the market and online these days.
You can pair them with many saris and even your skirts and lehengas. These are
quite chic and stylish and can be designed in umpteen ways.
Kalamkari Dresses
Dresses, gowns,
ethnic and fusion Indo Western garments and even Salwar Suits are also made in Kalamkari patterns and prints.
Kalamkari Dupattas
Pair your plain
suits and kurtas with Kalamkari dupattas and stoles for that special ethnic
edge. This looks very pretty and graceful.
Kalamkari Accessories
If you don’t
wish to wear any dresses or saris with Kalamkari prints, you can still
incorporate this ancient craft in your look – by getting purses, clutches,
juttis or other footwear and even wraps and stoles in Kalamkari prints and
patterns.
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